Ri –Bhoi District is the only district of Meghalaya where Eri-culture and Handloom Weaving is still practiced by the poorer section of the women in the rural area. In the District there are about 550 villages, out of which about 180 villages have the potentiality in this activity .Eri-culture and Handloom Weaving is a traditional craft in the area which remains as a part and parcel of the Culture and Heritage of the Scheduled tribe and economically poorer section of the society in the District since time immemorial. The District has about 2200 households engaged in Handloom weaving. 80% of the weavers are the women belong to the Khasi Tribe and the rest 20% belong to other sub tribes like Karbis,Lalungs, etc
Ri - Bhoi District of Meghalaya is very strong in the production of a fine variety of Eri Silk. The Silk yarn which is spun at the Cottage level is done from Cocoons that have reared locally. The yarn is not only spun and disposed to the buyers, but it is also used for weaving of traditional fabrics on their traditional floor loom. The people in this area are also known for the dyeing technique in which indigenous vegetable dyes are used on yarn. Therefore, the whole process has a very significant and unique system of activities where right from yarn production up to weaving of finished fabric is done locally. It is found that not even a single item required throughout the whole process is imported from outside the District.
The design pattern of the fabric is mostly in checks and stripes using a combination of these vegetables dyed colours, to get a wide range of designs. Traditional motifs signifying the different clans and sub tribes are used by weavers of these various clans. Geometrical patterns, Floral and Animals motifs which are prevalent in the area and which form part of the culture are often used.
The handloom artisans in the District are belonging to poorer section of the community. Therefore, frequent change of the product, designs, colour pattern and other new innovations in the market has put the handloom weaver in a position which bears the cost of the trail production before the same product is introduced in the market. For instance:-
Incapability to take bulge order- which means larger investment which is impossible for the poor weaver.
Frequent change product version in design and pattern-means increase in the development cost.
Inability to face new uncertainties.- means risks.
In- ability to maintain the quality standards like Fabric structure , specificity, designs, colour ,etc,- Due to the entire production process is manual and labour intensive and usually done in small and disperse set up.
Most of the weavers are part time weavers because of lack of proper work place during monsoon. The District receives rain almost six month in a year i.e. from April to September.
MARKET PROSPECT:-
Till date the Handloom has no organize market despite several marketing strategies of the State Government and Government of India. Handloom Industry is a traditional activity in which mass production is far from possible. Eri silk fabric in the District suit the type of market and needs the buyers who understand well and can address the problems of the poor Artisans effectively. The buyers should plan and place their orders well in advance. For example, the order should be one year before for the next season. This will give time to the weavers to plan for procurement of raw materials, development of sample; financial implication, etc. well ahead before time and can meet the orders within the scheduled period.
The eri silk which is produced in the district since time immemorial till date can indeed be certified as an organic product that has a market especially in the today's environmentally conscious world. Preserving the forest eco-system and augmenting the growing of these dyed plants and herbs and creating awareness on the value of vegetable dyeing with an eye to explore more options of other colours is the need of the hour.
Interventions :-
The State Government and the Government of India has come up with various schemes and Projects to overcome the above problems. Some of the developmental and welfare schemes are :-
a) Silk weaving Technology Training Programme in which weavers have trained on Eri silk weaving.(State Scheme)
b) Technological Up gradation support to the weavers like up gradation of loom and support to the Self help Groups and also R.& D support in Designs development and product diversification.(State Scheme)
c) Basic training programmed to the new weavers (State Scheme)
d) Health Insurance Scheme. (GOI, D.C. Handloom, Ministry of Textiles)
e) Mahatma Gandhi Bunker Bima Yojna Life Insurance Scheme. (GOI, D.C. Handloom, Ministry of Textiles)
f) Integrated Handloom Development Schemes on Cluster Approach which the District Handloom Office is implementing at Iapngar Handloom Cluster during 2008-09 to 2010-11 and a Project Proposal has been proposed for Marmain Cluster this year 2009-10. (GOI, D.C. Handloom, Ministry of Textiles)
g) Integrated Handloom Development Schemes on Group Approach. This Scheme is to provide a need base comprehensive package to the Self Help Groups by providing Work shed, Basic inputs like new loom, margin money, Dobby, Jacquard, etc. During the year 2008-09 , 90 numbers of SHGs' weaver will be benefited and during 2009-10 about 94 numbers is being targeted (GOI, D.C.Handloom, Ministry of Textiles).
h) Convergences from various schemes of DRDA like SGSY, Backward Region Grant Fund, etc. for the benefit of the weavers and Handloom SHGs in particular.
The above developmental Schemes is expected to take care most the of the problems face by the weavers right from the supply of raw materials, weaving process up to the marketing of the final product.
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